4x4 Adventure: Tapin Tops National Park, NSW

For me, a 4x4 is a tool – a tool to find solitude, peace and to immerse myself in Mother Nature. In fact, I actually call my rig ‘the freedom machine’ because that is exactly what it offers me, freedom. I often find myself in places that do not require low-range or technical driving, and I’m fine with that; although, there is plenty of satisfaction to be had driving difficult and challenging tracks.

One such place I have started to visit regularly are the mountains north of Gloucester in NSW. For the most part it’s easy driving but there are slippery and steep challenges to be found, if you explore the overgrown and less-travelled tracks.

The one thing it has in spades is natural beauty. Dirt roads cut through this heavily forested green landscape taking in creek crossings, waterfalls, sub-tropical rainforest, tall-timbered ridgelines and stunning elevated viewpoints. From the coastal hinterland through to 1000m-plus peaks, you are rewarded with scenic diversity. It is incredibly beautiful and nearly always quiet, and it is not well-known at all.

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CHASING STORMS

On this trip I was travelling in the height of summer, on a mission. These mountains cop some ferocious storms; I had witnessed many in the past and a look at the forecast had me excited in anticipation of capturing nature’s fury on camera.

This region was about to be belted with large storms. It was the perfect excuse to get away again and, believe me, I can get pretty creative when it comes to making excuses to jump in to my 4x4. Equally important was a desire to share a different 4x4 experience with you.

The fact you are reading this means you are as passionate about 4WDing as me, but I wanted to connect with you on a different level. I decided to share my passion for photography by simply enveloping myself in nature, and one of my favourite things to photograph is stormy weather. It is what often drives me to travel.

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I was driving toward Gloucester and the sky was filled with tall, convective towers of cloud

For whatever reason you travel (and that may change trip to trip) I’d like you to take a moment and embrace it. It is incredibly easy to become disconnected with our own values. We are bombarded with content and the experiences of others and forget how to value our own.

Well, the prediction models were looking accurate. I was driving toward Gloucester and the sky was filled with tall, convective towers of cloud … it would be on soon.

After a quick shop and refuel I was only 10 minutes in to the dirt when the first storm cell approached from the north. I threw caution to the wind (literally) and decided to send up the drone to capture the rapidly approaching storm with a pretty evil-looking gust front. I knew from experience that as the front hits it would bring powerful winds and rain, potentially carrying the drone away, never to be seen again.

Seeing it from the air was even more impressive than seeing it from the ground and I managed to safely land just in time. I was already feeling happy and excited, and the next few days promised even better storm conditions.

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DINGO TOPS

The next few hours were happily spent in driving rain as I made my way to my first camp, Dingo Tops rest area (within Tapin Tops National Park). It is a beautifully lush and green site with good amenities; although, it is also accessible by car so is not as remote as the other areas I had in mind.

From here it is easy to branch out in many directions to take in waterfalls, tough tracks or views. I had the place to myself and by now the stormy skies resembled a mess of low-level showers, so it was an early night, ready for tomorrow’s action.

I spent a good while in the early morning chatting to a local ranger about the impact of the devastating fires of Christmas 2019. A sad conversation, but it was clear to see that regrowth was strong. This summer was relatively wet and cool, a stark contrast to last year’s dry inferno.

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I had a few elevated spots in mind to observe the afternoon’s storm build-up. I set up the rooftop tent and chilled out in the shade with 360-degree views at Blue Knob and, to be honest, it was a really nice way to pass the day – reading and running some time lapses on the GoPro.

By mid-afternoon I had witnessed the development of two very impressive distant storms. But within the period of an hour the overhead sky had also transformed, the cauliflower-looking towers above were merging rapidly and good, dark bases evolved.

Soon my immediately surrounding atmosphere was absolutely alive and dynamic. I realised at this point that I could be absolutely belted, as what I thought was a dark band of narrow inflow was actually a storm base overhead.

There were some mild overhead rumbles, then boom! A bolt landed within 100m of me, a clear-air bolt that threw well-out from the storm tower. I was kind of expecting that possibility, but it caught me completely off guard and I jumped at the flash and instant crack. I was in the danger zone of this rapidly building beast. But I knew this would quickly pass.

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Thankfully driving winds took this monster away, and I was in the perfect position. I spent the next few hours shooting this and two other beast storms. There were several close bolts and I managed to score a photo of one not too far away. Incredibly I stayed dry the whole time; had I been just a kilometre away, I would have been drenched at least three times. It was an incredible day of storms, which sadly didn’t continue into the night – the atmosphere was completely gutted in a few hours.

The next few days I spent travelling the area, including a night at the lovely Maxwells Flat camp area and Ellenborough Falls. Yes, there were more storms, but not as impressive as those on the second day.

It was one of the best trips I have done in recent times, it was real food for my soul. I have travelled all over Australia and really enjoyed it, but sometimes all it takes is that short little trip close to home to replenish yourself.

TRAVEL PLANNER

Tapin Tops National Park can be accessed year-round. The driving is easy but keep an eye out for logging trucks, particularly on the main roads. There are several camp areas in the park: Dingo Tops has sheltered barbecue areas, long-drop toilets and campfire rings; Maxwells Flat is basic bush camping but does have two long-drop toilets, and it runs alongside a lovely clear-water creek with plenty of birdlife.

There are plenty of attractions to explore in the closely neighbouring parks including falls, creeks and campgrounds of varied amenities.

TOP FIVE PLACES TO VISIT

1. Dingo Tops Camp Area
2. Ellenborough Falls
3. Blue Knob Lookout
4. Rowleys Rock Lookout
5. Maxwells Flat Camp Area