Stunned. Like the car was on fire. Like it was feathered. Like they were from the 1600s and had never seen a car before.

But in fairness, these national park workers deep in a state forest a few hours east of Melbourne, had almost certainly never seen a Bentley Bentayga – the fastest, most expensive SUV the world has so far known – let alone one roaring down the quiet, winding dirt road around which they were working.

Bentley’s new super-SUV has only just landed in Australia and it’s ready to take a lot of money off a very few people. Utilitarian might be the SUV’s middle name but now even the very, very wealthy want them – and for versions that properly express their wealth, they’re willing to pay.

2016 Bentley Bentayga rear

Few cars spark conversation quite like the Bentayga – from even the meekest of people it will draw an opinion. Some think it’s butt-ugly, not big enough and lacking presence. Others are completely besotted by the novelty of a Bentley SUV.

It’s true that if you removed the badges, most punters would have no idea what it is. A white test car didn’t help things, and it’s just as well the show improves when you slip inside.

2016 Bentley Bentayga interior

And around town it is blissful. A whisper-quiet cabin exaggerates the tiniest of rattles in our test car while we waft along, sitting high and able to see over traffic – presumably a big part of the appeal for many would-be Bentayga owners.

2016 Bentley Bentayga driving scenic roads
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One word will come to mind during your first five seconds of full throttle, and we’re not able to publish it. The Bentayga squats hard onto its rear axle as it rockets towards the horizon.

It is certainly eye-opening as you’re still obviously required to guide 2440kg of physics-defying projectile down the road. Though for the excitement of the acceleration, lovers of exhaust notes will be disappointed as that big W12, even at full noise, could be mistaken for a V6.

2016 Bentley Bentayga engine

On dirt the Bentayga is more fun that it should be and can do a decent hot hatch impression, the ESP permitting a quarter turn of corrective lock under brakes into corners. But mostly, in a straight line and up a twisty road, the Bentayga is just devastatingly fast. And overall it’s a pretty damn good car. But we’re not quite sure it’s worth – err, we suggest not taking a large sip of your drink at this moment – $570,000 as-tested.

2016 Bentley Bentayga front

The interior is nice, but for the money it should feel like you’re meant to be getting fanned by ostrich feathers and being fed grapes by half-nude concubines. For the incredible asking price, it doesn’t feel special enough.

The Audi SQ7 is on its way with a 320kW, 900Nm 4.0-litre twin-turbo diesel V8 good for 0-100 in 4.9sec. Slower than the Bentayga, but at around $160K it’s going to come with air suspension standard and even with options like carbon ceramic brakes, for $200K you’ll have a car that’ll deliver approximately 80 per cent of the Bentayga experience for at least half the price.

2016 Bentley Bentayga still

4.0 OUT OF 5 STARS

LIKE: Crazy power; surprisingly good handling; the ultimate cruiser DISLIKE: With price comes expectations the Bentayga just doesn’t meet

SPECS Engine: 5950cc W12, DOHC, 48v, twin-turbo Power: 447kW @ 5000rpm Torque: 900Nm @ 1350rpm Weight: 2440kg 0-100km/h: 4.1sec (claimed) Price: $423,600