Explore: Beaches of Broome

I’ll never forget my first sunset in Broome.

It was September 1994, with my wife on a ‘second honeymoon’ mapping trip to the Kimberley – the end of an arduous drive from Brisbane, running in a brand-new Land Rover Discovery. We’d been bogged out the back of Windorah (don’t ask!), bent a steering dampener on a jump-up on Mt Elizabeth Station and travelled more than 5000km in under a week.

Travel weary, we arrived at Cable Beach to the strum of a busker’s guitar, ordered our fish ‘n’ chips and headed down to watch the fire-orange sunset across the pearlescent sand and silky-blue ocean. The cool coastal breeze blew our cares away with the long drive now a distant memory. It felt like we’d been shipwrecked and washed up on a distant shore.

Not surprisingly, the serene stretch of coastline north of Broome is called Goolarabooloo – the coast where the sun goes down – a fitting name given the litany of open beaches, headlands and beachside bush campsites that frame this daily spectacle of colour as the tropical sun melts into the Indian Ocean.

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There’s a rich indigenous connection to country that’s been captured in the Lurujarri Dreaming Trail that in part follows traditional song cycles, camping areas, middens and bush tucker (in season) for over 82km north from Minyirr (Gantheaume Point near Broome). Although it never took off as a hike, the coastal backroads and tracks follow a similar route and the trail’s signage is very helpful for local navigation.

White-bellied sea eagles (boongginy) cruise majestically along the shoreline searching for fish, birds, mammals, reptiles and crustaceans. It’s Australia’s second-largest raptor and a spectacular creature to watch or be lucky enough to get close to as it rests and keeps watch over its native homeland. Offshore, extensive seagrass beds feed dugong and green turtles, and countless humpback whales come here to calve in season.

Access to the area is via the Manari Road which turns off the main Cape Leveque Road, 14km north of the Great Northern Highway. The road cuts deep into the pindan red sand and is often-corrugated but unlikely to cause any issues for offroad caravans and trailers.

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Cable Beach day trip

Cable Beach is a beautiful but busy place. There’s an easy day trip north of Broome, which takes in a tour of the world-class Willie Creek Pearl Farm. The pearl farm has several guided tours including a boat trip along the turquoise waters of Willie Creek and a live pearl harvest. Lunches can be pre-booked or just enjoy a cold drink or coffee at the licensed outdoor café and view some exquisite pieces in the gallery showcases. There’s also a public boat ramp to access the estuarine or offshore fishing areas; just beware of crocs.

You can access Willie Creek via the shorter, but more weather affected ‘red route’ or the 4x4-only ‘blue route’. Both routes are well-signed and clearly marked. For more info see www.williecreekpearls.com.au

Alternatively, the ‘free beach’ north of the Cable Beach Resort access ramp is a perfect place to find a section of open beach all to yourself, enjoy a cool swim, a cold drink and watch the sun set.

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Exploring farther north

The region provides some of the best beach camping in the country, especially south of Quandong Point (Kardilarkan) where multiple flat sites sit high atop the foredunes with open views across the beach to the Indian Ocean horizon. It’s ideal for compact off-road vans with on-board amenities and there’s easy access to Quandong Beach for walking and exploring the many rocky headlands, rockpools and secluded beaches to the north.

But there’s little shade or wind protection so plan accordingly to make your stay a comfortable one. Campfires are permitted but bring your own wood and ensure your fire is fully extinguished before you leave.

The mouth of Barred Creek is a special place, its turquoise waters cutting deep into the pearly-white sand. It’s also a hidden place and not so easy to find as you zigzag your way through the coastal scrub with little in the way of signage or directions.

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There’s some idyllic beach camping amongst the foredunes to the south of the creek mouth and some shady trailer sites back inland, but only for a few vehicles. Other sites are scattered along the beach to the south where you’ll likely have it all to yourself. There’s a few places to launch a small boat for some excellent fishing and crabbing in Barred Creek but beware of the big tides, currents and of course crocodiles.

Walmadan was an early 20th century warrior for his people so it’s fitting that just a decade ago, James Price Point (Walmadan) was a battleground to protect its significant, environmental and cultural heritage including monsoonal vine thickets and a breeding bilby population.

The Goolarabooloo custodians backed by some well-organised supporters mounted a successful legal challenge to overturn the WA Environment Minister and Environmental Protection Agency approvals for the Browse LNG Project. It’s a decision that has left the unique area free to explore and enjoy for generations to come.

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The camping here is very special, and every site has an ocean view. The best sites are atop the red pindan cliffs with their unlimited views and drive-through access, but most will need to find a flat spot along the kilometres of open beach frontage at the base of the cliffs. (There’s easy access via the track just north of the point).

The rocky point is a perfect place to just wander, fish, paint or even write poetry as one day in this timeless paradise blends effortlessly in to the next.

Although exposed and without facilities, the overnight camping sites on the beach rock at Manari Point (Flat Rock) have some epic views of the ocean, and the beach north to Coulomb Point.

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Coulomb Point (Minarriny) can be accessed via a 6km beach run at low tide or along an easy but often-narrow inland 4x4 track. If following the track, turn west at the makeshift beach shelter called ‘Bonny Doon’ and follow the track to the beach (or in reverse from the beach).

The inshore rocky reefs form some easy-to-access rock pools at low tide and reasonable rock or beach fishing around the point or in a small beach-launched boat. Although permitted, there’s little protection for camping along the dunes, making this area better for day trips from Manari or Quandong Point camping areas.

If you’re keen to venture even farther north, the small estuary at Cape Bertholet is best accessed via the inland track, heading east of the beach shelter, and crosses several dry streams above their tidal reach. It’s also best to take a mate and a second vehicle to manage the risk of getting stuck on the tidal mudflats or in the soft sand.

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Facilities and access

There are no public toilets, fuel or freshwater facilities and phone coverage is limited so you’ll need to be self-sufficient and take out what you bring in. Campfires and pets are generally permitted but should be well-managed at all times. At this stage camping and access is all free, with a three-night maximum stay in many areas. The best offline maps are found on the Lurujarri Trail signs, so simply take a photo of one and use this to find your way.

I expect that increasing visitor numbers and environmental impacts will eventually trigger a visitor permit system and proactive management, but until then the area is free for all to enjoy.