Little Desert National Park
Justin Walker
Victoria’s own outback experience offers plenty for 4x4 explorers
Little Desert National Park is Victoria’s own ‘outback,’ located around four hours’ drive west of Melbourne, near Dimboola. The 1326km² park is bordered by the Wimmera River, great for fishing, and the SA/Vic border near Naracoorte, featuring a fantastic mix of sandy desert terrain and huge river red gums.
The landscape is diverse with mallee country vegetation, such as heath, dominating the eastern section due to lower rainfall, while the western side features casuarina woodlands and swamp areas that emerge after rain, with river red gums lining the park’s waterways.
The park includes several campgrounds, from easily accessible sites via bitumen roads to more remote desert locations. Numerous sandy 4x4 tracks are available for exploration, along with two sealed main roads for linking these tracks. A 4X4 with a dual-range transfer case is essential for navigating the soft sandy terrain, providing opportunities to escape the crowds and immerse in nature.
An exciting adventure is to traverse the park’s three sections via the McDonald Highway, which begins at the eastern end of the central section, accessible via Nhill Road.
Despite its name, this highway is a sandy track. By linking it with Eastern section tracks and heading south along Kaniya-Edenhope Road, visitors can re-enter the park via the East-West Track, offering a rough plan for a weekend trip.
Starting in the east allows for a full day of exploring the numerous tracks before camping that night at Kiata Campground, Ackle Bend, or Horseshoe Bend, all suitable for caravans and camper trailers. The park has six campgrounds, including walk-in options like Mallee Walkers Camp and Yellow Gum Walkers Camp.
Bush camping in the central and western sections allows for solitude along side-tracks. Camp fees apply at Ackle Bend and Horseshoe Bend, so advance booking is necessary.
Visitors must bring their own water, as potable water is scarce. A powerful torch is recommended for nighttime wildlife viewing, as the park is home to possums and various nocturnal birds, creating memorable encounters for everyone.
With around 600km of tracks in the park, highlights include Dahlenburgs Mill, Jungkum, Salt Lake, Mallee, and McCabes Hut in the eastern section, as well as Broughtons-Sambells, Lawloit, Jacobs, and Mt Moffat in the west.
The western section tracks are generally more difficult, but experienced drivers should manage well. It’s essential to check weather forecasts, as tracks can become boggy after rain.
Little Desert NP is also a great destination for bushwalkers. Numerous short walks, including the Pomponderoo Hill Nature Walk near Dimboola and a scenic stroll beside the Wimmera River, average a couple of hours.
The 74km Little Desert Walk can be segmented into shorter sections, offering deeper engagement with the park’s wildlife, including 220 bird species such as emus, wedge-tailed eagles and the rare malleefowl. Spring visitors can enjoy a landscape dotted with wildflowers. For longer treks, walk-in-only campgrounds provide true remoteness, but registration with Parks Victoria is required.
For those seeking an outback adventure without travelling to South Australia or the Northern Territory, Little Desert National Park offers a brilliant desert driving experience, abundant wildlife viewing, and serene campgrounds.
Murray-Sunset National Park
Glenn Marshall
There’s plenty to see and do in Murray-Sunset NP, as well as some fun sand driving opportunities
Murray-Sunset National Park in north-western Victoria is a hidden gem that offers breathtaking landscapes, unique history and a variety of outdoor activities. The nearest towns, Mildura and Renmark, provide essential facilities for travellers.
The best time to visit is during the cooler months from April to September, though access can be limited after rainfall. During the warmer months, native bees become active, adding to the park’s vibrant ecosystem. Camping options abound at sites like Lake Crosbie, Mt Crozier, Mopoke Hut, Rocket Lake and Pheeneys Track, each equipped with pit toilets, tables and firepits. Rainwater availability depends on conditions, while Border Track Campground is unserviced.
Essential gear for visitors includes a compressor, tyre gauge, repair kit, food, water and firewood. The park’s tracks can be challenging, especially away from the Pink Lakes, where deep sand presents a real test, particularly in warmer weather.
Just outside Renmark, the stunning Heading Cliff lookout is a must-see. The cliff’s colours shift throughout the day, making sunset a particularly magical time to visit. Nearby, the Woolshed Brewery offers a variety of locally brewed beers, accompanied by beautiful river views, barbecue facilities and food trucks on weekends.
A visit to the old Customs House at the end of Murtho Road reveals its historical significance as a collection point for goods transported via paddle steamers. Today, it operates as a general store with river access and a boat ramp. The Border Cliffs Customs House Wetland Walk, a 4km loop, begins and ends here, providing an opportunity to explore the wetland ecosystem.
Crossing into Victoria via Millewa Road, the Border Track leads to White’s Cairn survey marker, a replica from 1850 commemorating the border survey by Edward White and Henry Wade. The track continues, offering sandy terrain and a chance to spot local wildlife such as echidnas.
Tank Track connects to Berribee Tank Track, which descends through dunes toward the Sturt Highway. The nearby Shearers Quarters Camping Area features firepits, tables and a pit toilet, with the option to book the historic Shearers Quarters cottage.
Exiting Murray-Sunset, the journey to Ouyen reveals the new recreational lake, a transformation of the former Ouyen Reservoir. This area, now equipped with facilities for water sports, signifies the region’s ongoing development. Refuelling in Ouyen will allow a brief break before returning to the park.
Back in the park, Mopoke Hut, built in 1962, serves as a historical resting place for cattle drovers. Though vandalised in the past, it has since been restored by local clubs. The campsite here provides a connection to the area’s history, offering travellers a comfortable spot to unwind.
Last Hope Track is nearby and reveals remnants of old lake beds, and navigating through muddy junctions tests driving skills. The journey to Mount Crozier involves picturesque landscapes and views. The drive can often conclude at Lake Crosbie, where the busy campground showcases the area’s appeal.
While in the park make sure you visit the Pioneer Museum, detailing the area’s salt mining history, while the Pink Lakes exhibit their vibrant colours due to algal activity. A journey along Grub Track and Sunset Track leads to stunning landscapes and a connection to the region’s pastoral past. The drive back home incorporates scenic routes through the Mallee, showcasing fields of wheat and canola swaying in the breeze.
Victorian High Country
Words: Tristan Tancredi
Photos: Ron Moon
The Victorian High Country offers some of the best four-wheel driving in Australia, as well as plenty of other activities and some great camping
The Victorian High Country is often mentioned when discussing the best 4x4 tracks in the country. Only a few hours’ drive from Melbourne, the High Country is known for its stunning views, rich history, extensive outdoor activities, dense and lush forests and, of course, its challenging 4x4 tracks. Not just a mecca for off-roading, the region is also well-known for its skiing, hiking and fishing, and beautiful towns like Mansfield and Bright.
The best time to visit the High Country is between spring and summer, and a majority of tracks in the area are closed during the winter months. Remember to always carry essential safety equipment and off-road gear for such an adventure. Here are some of the best tracks and spots within the High Country.
Billy Goat Bluff: Billy Goat Bluff isn’t for the faint of heart, but overcoming its incredibly steep ascents and descents – it’s one of the steepest tracks in Victoria – will lead to breathtaking scenery. A modified 4x4 with high clearance is essential for anyone wishing to embark on this challenge, as the track is graded as difficult.
The track is located within Alpine National Park near the Wonnangatta River, and it’s common for four-wheel drivers to start at Dargo (27km to the track via Crooked River Road) and end at Licola. There are a few camping spots along the way, including at Horseyard Flat and Black Snake Creek. The area is also popular for bushwalking, horse riding, rock climbing and fishing.
Howitt Plains Track: Easier and more inviting than Billy Goat Bluff for casual four-wheel drivers, Howitt Plains Track is a scenic route that carves through beautiful alpine forestry and provides access to many walking trails and well-known camping spots.
The track is accessible from the small town of Howitt, approximately four hours’ drive from Melbourne, and travellers often start at the southern end near the Howitt Plains. Some sections can be challenging, so a high-clearance 4x4 is recommended. While there, be sure to have a picnic at Howitt Plains; detour to Mount Howitt to get truly impressive vistas of the area, or bushwalk the many trails including The Viking, a multi-day hike.
Mount Pinnibar Track: Most tourers depart from the nearby towns of Omeo and Benambra to access this challenging 4x4 track from the northern end, near the southern base of Mount Pinnibar. As with the other tracks on this list, a high-clearance 4x4 is essential, as the track is steep in sections, with mud known to hinder vehicles after rain.
Inexperienced drivers need not apply, as the track has plenty of technical sections and steep climbs, but the alpine views at several vantage points along the way make it an extremely rewarding journey.
Dargo High Plains Track: This adventure typically starts at the towns of Dargo or Licolo, roughly four hours’ drive from Melbourne. The well-known track weaves through the Alpine National Park and mixes picturesque views with challenging terrain.
A combination of river crossings of the Dargo River, steep climbs and technical sections means a high-clearance 4x4 is essential. The Dargo High Plains Road leads to the start of the Blue Rag track, which ends at a high peak with unbeatable views of the area.
As with all tracks on this list, it’s paramount to be well-prepared if things turn sour – that means packing the correct safety and off-road gear, and knowing how to use it. Canoeing, fishing and rafting are popular in the region, as is hiking and horseback riding.
Zeka Spur Track: The historic Zeka Spur Track is another recommended for experienced tourers only due to its demanding and technical off-road sections. The track that leads to the Wonnangatta Valley is littered with sharp rocks, steep ascents and descents, and multiple river crossings, so an appropriate high-clearance 4x4 is non-negotiable.
The track is most commonly accessed from the southern end off Howitt Plains Road from Licola, but it can also be reached from the northern end near Dargo. It’s also highly popular for trout fishing and hiking.
Grampians National Park
Robert Norman
Grampians National Park is renowned for its stunning landscapes and offers hundreds of kilometres of gravel roads, 4x4 tracks and walking trails
Grampian National Park’s array of accommodations, restaurants and wineries makes it a perfect getaway for travellers of all tastes.
Halls Gap, with a population of just 430, serves as the gateway to the Grampians. Despite its small size, the town boasts essential services including a bakery, general store, hotel, service station and cafes that accommodate a steady influx of visitors. Among the town’s attractions is Victoria’s largest regional zoo, home to more than 160 species of native and exotic animals.
Visitors can enjoy unique encounters with dingoes, meerkats, giraffes, cheetahs, and rhinos. Families can also take advantage of electric bike rentals and a paved bike/walking track that runs through town. For adults, nearby wineries, such as Fallen Giants, offer the perfect retreat for wine tasting.
For fishing enthusiasts, the Grampians features numerous manmade lakes and reservoirs stocked with redfin and trout. For those who prefer dining out, the Halls Gap Hotel serves delicious fish and chips – reservations are recommended.
A must-visit is the Brambuk National Park & Cultural Centre, which celebrates the connection to Country through indigenous dancers, artists and storytellers. Known as Gariwerd to the traditional owners, the Grampians is home to the largest collection of Aboriginal rock art sites in Southern Australia, with 80 per cent of Victoria’s sites located here. These ancient artworks, some dating back 20,000 years, can be explored at public sites like Bunjil’s Shelter, nestled within a granite boulder.
The park features an extensive network of unsealed roads and tracks, ranging from accessible to steep and rocky, making it a popular destination for the 4x4 community.
Campgrounds within the park require online booking, and while many sites offer basic amenities like toilets and fireplaces, those seeking comfort can opt for caravan parks in Halls Gap, which provide additional facilities such as hot showers and swimming pools.
For those looking to explore beyond their vehicles, numerous walking trails lead to breathtaking lookouts and attractions. Mt Victory Road winds through scenic areas, offering access to locations like the Elephant’s Hide and the stunning panoramas at Lakeview and Pinnacle Lookouts. For a more challenging hike, the moderately difficult walk to the summit of Mt William rewards hikers with spectacular views.
Among the park’s highlights is MacKenzie Falls, Victoria’s largest waterfall, which flows year-round. Though swimming is prohibited, visitors can enjoy the stunning scenery, while a short side track leads to the picturesque Broken Falls. Nearby, Wartook Reservoir offers a peaceful picnic spot with lovely views.
The Grampians is also home to various 4x4 tracks. Adventurers can explore routes like Victoria Range Track, which features challenging terrains and stunning vistas. The park's gravel roads, while not overly difficult, provide spectacular views of the Grampians’ rugged landscape.
While most caravan parks in Halls Gap enforce a no-dogs policy, nearby Lake Fyans Holiday Park welcomes pets outside of peak times. For those preferring to free camp, Glendinning Campground and Lake Lonsdale Campground offer dog-friendly options with basic facilities and fishing opportunities.
Grampians National Park truly has something for everyone, making it an ideal destination for repeated visits.
Murray River Road
Miriam Blaker
For those who want an idyllic riverside escape, Murray River Road is an ideal destination
Tintaldra, once a bustling hub of activity along the Upper Murray, is a small hamlet steeped in history. In its heyday, it featured a ferry crossing, customs house, blacksmith, and even a police sergeant on patrol. This quaint locale was one of the few points to cross the river from Victoria into New South Wales.
Fast forward to today, and while the original punt has given way to a modern bridge, Tintaldra remains a serene retreat. The local police officers stationed here are friendly, offering a warm welcome to visitors. This charming town, coupled with the iconic Murray River, provides ample opportunities for relaxation and exploration.
The journey from Melbourne, over five hours long, becomes increasingly scenic upon leaving the Hume Highway. Travellers are treated to stunning landscapes as they navigate towards Tallangatta and the Murray River Road, which connects the majestic Murray River with the Snowy Mountains.
Numerous campsites dot the area, and the drive through Tallangatta reveals the forest’s resilient regrowth after the bushfires. The winding Shelley-Walwa Road descends to the Murray River Road, showcasing the river’s meandering path through lush grazing lands and woodlands. Walwa makes for an ideal pit stop, boasting a well-stocked general store, a pub, and a caravan park.
Neils Reserve, just 7km east of Walwa, offers abundant camping options along the river. As the journey continues, panoramic views abound, particularly at the Jim Newman Lookout, where the Murray River gracefully winds through the valley, framed by the distant Alps.
A notable feature here is a giant bogong moth structure that highlights the significance of these moths to the indigenous people who once thrived on them during the spring and summer months.
Clarkes Reserve serves as the perfect campsite, with its picturesque river frontage ideal for fishing or canoeing. Situated just 6km from Tintaldra, this idyllic spot offers a lush, open space for relaxation. After settling in, a visit to the town reveals a quiet atmosphere.
The historic general store, built in 1864, is a must-visit. Stepping inside is akin to stepping back in time, with its patterned tin interior and river red gum beams. This store, which also serves as a post office and museum, was once a vital supply hub for the area.
Caretaker Robin Walton shares the store’s rich history, recounting her family’s nearly 50-year stewardship and honouring her late mother, a beloved figure in the community known for her hospitality.
Across the road stands the Tintaldra Hotel, established in 1870 and serving as a local gathering place for years. Though it faced closure, the hotel has been revitalised since reopening in 2018, combining historical charm with modern amenities, including excellent pub food and cold drinks.
Visitors can enjoy views of the historic river red gum bridge while the nearby monument commemorates early pioneers like Christian Vogel, a jack-of-all-trades who contributed significantly to the area’s development.
For outdoor enthusiasts, Burrowa-Pine Mountain National Park presents a playground of bushwalking and four-wheel driving opportunities. Though some tracks remain closed for safety assessments post-bushfire, ranger insights hint at future openings. Pine Mountain, one of the Southern Hemisphere’s largest monoliths, beckons adventurers, while Cudgewa Bluff Falls offers a spectacular spot to cool off in nature.
Nearby Mt Mittamatite Regional Park features Embery Lookout, promising breathtaking views over Corryong and the Australian Alps. The region is also dotted with welcoming country pubs like the Walwa Pub and the Cudgewa Pub, perfect for a refreshing drink after a day of exploration.
As dusk falls at camp, the river provides a tranquil backdrop for relaxation. With more than 155km of stunning landscapes to discover along the Murray River Road, Tintaldra and its surroundings offer a wealth of experiences for those seeking adventure and tranquillity in this magnificent part of Victoria.
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