Darwin Escapes: Daly River and surrounds

Less than three hours’ drive and you’re at arguably Australia’s best barramundi fishing destination: the Daly River. This 351km-long waterway winds its way past the town of Daly River and the aboriginal community of Nauiyu and offers plenty for (obviously) the angler, but also for Top End history buffs, birdwatchers (thanks to the river and the many surrounding lily-covered billabongs) and off-road tourers.

The area has been the home of the Malak Malak people for eons, with the discovery of copper back in 1882 at Mt Hayward seeing Europeans arrive in more significant numbers (and the occasional conflict; four miners were attacked by members of the indigenous population with consequent – and devastating – repercussions).

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There is little remaining of the copper mine today, besides the mineshafts. The next European visitors to the region had more success; Jesuit missionaries established a small mission (now in ruins just near the Day River Mango Farm – accommodation is available here, allowing visitors to check out the ruins) and then, much later in the 1950s, Roman Catholics moved to the community of Nauiyu, now the area’s main town/centre, with the majority of the population Roman Catholic.

Visitors to the area should definitely check out Nauiyu; besides the obvious resupply and refuel opportunities, the community’s Merrepen Arts Centre is brilliant. Visitors can purchase indigenous artwork here for reasonable prices (without the big city markups) in a variety of styles and formats, ranging from paintings to shirts and weavings. The community’s church is also worth a look.

Of course, it is the big (some say biggest) barramundi that most visitors come to the Daly River for. Arrive just after wet season is over and the roads (and the Daly River Crossing itself) are passable and you’ll be in with a great chance of snaring that big barra – or multiple barra.

There are numerous accommodation options around here that revolve around the hunt for barra, or you can camp down beside the river if you wish. However, it’s not only the barra that are big; as with most Top End waterways, the Daly River is home to both species of crocodile, and some of the saltwater crocs lazing on the river’s shore are indeed bloody huge – as in longer than some tinnies. Cruising along the river in your boat, throwing out a line and ogling the massive crocs is great fun though.

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There are a number of short four-wheel drive adventures surrounding this area, including a day visit out to the community of Peppimenarti (you will need to apply for a visitor’s permit beforehand), or a trundle down to some of the nearby large billabongs for some bird spotting.

Alternatively, there’s the 1.5-hour drive to Oolloo Crossing and the chance to camp in this pristine, remote part of the area. The crossing here is rarely used due to the build-up of sand banks on the opposite side of the river (and the fact it is now Aboriginal Land and thus requires a permit) but the bush camping on the banks above the river is great. You can even launch your tinny here if you wish to hook a barra or two.

As well as the same-named crossing on Oolloo Road, there’s the Douglas River Esplanade Conservation Area, slightly north of the crossing. This conservation area contains some fantastic thermal springs that are great for washing the dust off and simply relaxing. There are nine campsites here, with plenty to occupy both those on a day visit or those camping.

The Arches (a rock formation carved by the river’s flow) is well worth an hour of exploration, as is The Weir. Keep an eye out for water dragons, snakes and other native wildlife that live in this riverine environment.

Going from Daly River/Nauiyu to Oollo Crossing and the Douglas River Esplanade Conservation requires some backtracking, but a long weekend would make this more than worth the effort. For lovers of the big NT waterways, barramundi fishing, croc-spotting and a rich and thriving indigenous culture, it’s a no-brainer.