Darwin Escapes: Kakadu National Park - South

This southern adventure in our famous national park begins with a straight bitumen run down the Stuart Highway to Pine Creek, and then turning left and following the Kakadu Highway into the park itself.

Just inside the southern border is the excellent Goymarr Tourist Park. Tracking north from here you soon reach the turn-off to one of Kakadu’s most famous waterfalls – Gunlom. Following this dirt road will bring you to the falls (made famous in the original Crocodile Dundee movie) and it’s easy to wile away a day here swimming in the lower pool.

But, for the best Gunlom experience, we highly recommend tackling the short but quite steep walking track that takes you to the top of the falls and the rockpools that feed it from above. These are perfect swimming holes, with the final rockpool before the drop offering spectacular views over the park’s western and southern landscapes.

You can camp at Gunlom, but for that truly remote bush-camping experience in this busy park we’d suggest driving farther south-east to Jarrangbarnmi Campground (Koolpin Gorge).

This campsite requires a permit (be sure to book well ahead), but the effort is worthwhile as it is sublime; the campsites are nestled beside Koolpin Creek and short walks (2km return) take you to remote plunge pools and waterfalls. It’ll be hard to return to camp.

Leaving this heaven-on-earth behind the next day, you will backtrack to the Kakadu Highway and continue north to the turn-off of the 4x4-only track to Maguk (Barramundi Gorge). This is yet another beautiful location – some short walks take you to one of the park’s best swimming holes.

A one-kilometre level walk from camp sees you reach a beautiful, long plunge pool, with the waterfall at its eastern end (and easily reached by swimming). There’s also a separate walking track that takes you directly to the top of the waterfall, where you can take a dip in the plunge pools above the falls.

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From Maguk, it’s a short return to the highway and then a farther drive north to the Graveside Gorge turn-off. This (very) remote campsite needs to be booked ahead and the drive in will take around three hours along the 44km of rocky, tricky terrain. It’s worth it, of course, if you wish to see another spectacular part of the park.

Farther north from here – and again back on the Kakadu Highway for access – is Jim Jim Falls, one of Kakadu’s most famous destinations. The drive in here is 4x4-only and is slow-going until you reach Garamarr campground. This campground is sizeable (it can handle 200 people) and has excellent facilities.

From here, the access track to Jim Jim Falls (and its beautiful plunge pool) continues, and you can also turn right to tackle the extra 10km to pretty Twin Falls (there’s a water crossing here and a snorkel is advised for your vehicle). Twin Falls Gorge is accessed via a boat shuttle these days (you used to be able to float in there with a lilo, etc.) but, as with everything in this park, it’s worth the time and effort.

For both Jim Jim and Twin Falls you can also gain access to the plateau above, but both are steep and challenging walks (four hours for Twin Falls; six hours for Jim Jim). The many walks in this area take you to some fantastic locations, and it makes a fitting final night in Kakadu National Park.

Equally fitting is the last day’s journey out of the park. Rather than taking the bitumen of the Kakadu and Arnhem highways, we’d recommend backtracking south slightly from Jim Jim Falls and taking the 4x4-only Old Jim Jim Road, as this tracks west through some fantastic floodplains and waterways. A great morning tea/lunch spot is Giyamungkurr (Black Jungle Springs) camping area.

From here it’s a straightforward run northwest to the Arnhem Highway and, after a few days in what seems like a totally removed, wild and untamed land, a return to ‘civilisation’.